Rothko Paris

 The Rothko exhibit put together at Foundation Louis Vuitton may be a once in a lifetime experience as the whole Frank Guerry designed museum is filled with his work.  iMHO, Rothko is America’s greatest artist and the French seemed to love the exhibit….the most crowded part was the information station on the Houston Texas Rothko chapel….perhaps Texas is about to see a swell in their French visitor.  One of the unique things was the Tate museum Rothko room brought to Paris for the exhibit.

Dining in Paris is phenomenal….Le Comptoir Boutary had an amazing tasting menu for a ridiculously low tariff….and yes, the family that owns the restaurant produces caviar so expect that as one of the courses….great sommelier recommendations ….

Best sweetbreads of my life at Les Parisiens…a great scallop tartare tart (seems redundant!) as a first course and an apple soufflé with a cider sauce for dessert.

If you are a Rothko fan, the exhibit goes through April 2.  Highly recommended.

Year End Notes

 Best Meal of the Year:  Ivan Cerdeno, Toledo Spain...close second Victor Sanchez Beato also in Toledo...so many great meals across Spain, a reminder that this is still tops for fine dining

Not Surprised(and well deserved):  John and Karen Shields Receiving 3rd Michelin Star for Smyth...their previous restaurant in Chilhowie Virginia, Townhouse, was IMHO best in America and was 3 star worthy...and Tom and Kyra Bishop were the owners and were so welcoming...miss so much

Wow:  Erik Niel of Easy Bistro here in Chattanooga etc received a mention earlier this week in the Wall Street Journal...always kind of cool when a local receives national press

Appreciative:  of all the local restaurants here in Chattanooga that keep dining interesting by putting out good ethnic dishes

Most interesting travel of the year:  Mississippi Delta Tamales and Blues trip on our way to Austin

Art Exhibit of the year:  Vermeer in Amsterdam...OMG

Spain

 Another recent trip to Spain (this time to Madrid and areas South), reinforces a prior conviction that Spain is perhaps the top country for fine dining in the world though we have not yet made it to Japan.

So many good spots at all price points, but Toledo had our favorites.

Ivan Cerdeno is the Michelin starred place we enjoyed one of those oh so special multi course European lunch experiences in a laid back spacious dining room open to the outside.  The other top meal was at Victor Sanchez Beato also in Toledo...no Michelin star at the time we went but should be forthcoming.  This was dinner and though we usually opt out of wine pairings, we enjoyed this wine pairing as much for the beautiful varied Riedel glassware as the very good included wines.  The set up here is a chefs bar...very casual as you move plates from in front of you to the service counter above and help yourself to silverware for each course.

We also had a great jamon bocadillo  (the sign said "The World's Best" and we have no reason to dispute that) for 4.90 euro that we took back to Plaza Mayor for a wonderful lunch in the midst of Toledo.

Aubert Single Vineyard Chardonnay

 We are about 20 years into our exploration of the world of wine and bottle after bottle of Mark Aubert's chards are revelatory....for us, the greatest chardonnay in the world.  We used to sometimes feel that they were over oaked at times not allowing the purity of the fruit to come through but with experience that a 5-10 year after bottling drinking window puts everything in balance.

Highly recommended.

India Mahal Lunch Buffet, Chattanooga

 We are frequent visitors to the lunch buffet here which is offered the 6 days a week they are open Daily except Tuesdays)...great value and very kind owners....usually brother and sister handling the front of house.  Buffet does change slightly from week to week...perhaps one or two items will be different but there always seems to be an excellent Saag Paneer available as well as one or 2 lentil dishes...skews vegetarian but always at least 2 chicken options.

Doe's Greenville Mississippi

 Doe's is a James Beard award winner American classic award winner.  Read about its history before you go (originally, whites had to come in the back door in a reversal of the usual protocol!).  CUrrently, everyone enters through the front and the kitchen before going back to what appeared to be 3 dining areas, one of which is also in the kitchen.

Check out the electrical wiring which wouldn't pass code most places and the linoleum worn straight through to the wood in places.

Reservations are accepted and several tables had brought wine to have with their steak.

Salad dressing is unique.  Spaghetti and meatballs is an original menu item as are the tamales which are wrapped in parchment rather than corn husks (we had read a post that coffee filters were used but that did not seem correct on our visit).  Shrimp is fried or sort of a New Orleans bbq style.

White Front Cafe Rosedale Mississippi

 One food item only but excellent delta tamales...the history of the place is interesting too if you can get the owner talking...she peeled garlic as we ate and told us how her brother passed his recipe to her as he was dying in the hospital.

Hours don't match up with Google listing...when we there last week it was open Wed-Sat.  RC and bottled water are available...also, saltines are offered...previous posters stated that you had to go to the convenience store across the street.

There is a poster on the wall showing the place a block away where Robert Johnson supposedly made his deal with the devil so we headed there after finishing....it was the third purported location of his deal we toured that day (he also has 3 different gravesites scattered across the delta so who knows for sure) but the owner feels this is the actual location since Robert Johnson's grandson gave her the poster.