Sunday, September 14, 2008

Daniel Lindley, St. Johns Restaurant

Daniel Lindley is unique, a true artist. His style is one in which presentation is every bit as stunning as his flavors and unexpected combinations. He is truly deserving of a James Beard award. His plates compete with those in New York and San Francisco, not anyone in our area. Take a trip to Bacchanalia in Atlanta, the top restaurant there, then to St. John and its clear he possesses something superior...he thinks about food in a unique way.



But he is also smart and savvy in a way that many artistic people are not- he knows his market is Chattanooga and not haute cusine. His restaurant is welcoming, and run capably by his friend and business partner, Josh Carter(who replaced Daniel's brother, Nathan who had worked with Frank Stitt in Birmingham prior to opening St. John). His menu offers many popular and safe choices that cater to this market, especially in the entree section. While they may not be representative of all Daniel can do, they are done very, very well. Concentrate on the familiar and you will have an outstanding dining experience, but you will miss the essence of this man's brilliance and creativity.



To get a sense of his true abilities, look to the appetizer section of St. John's menu where each dish is like a Picasso painting in presentation, and often jarringly amazing in flavor profiles and combination...the sort of thing that makes one sit up suddenly in your chair in utter awe and disbelief. A recent dish of veal carpaccio, with an olive tampenade studded with tiny croutons and mixed with raw egg evoked a sense of umami. Or an unbelievably thin shaved piece of watermelon studded with goat cheese and mint and topped with lobster.



His contemporaries are really New York icons like Jean George and David Bouley. His presence in a city of Chattanooga's size is a boon to dining here. Chattanoogans should count themselves fortunate that they have a restaurant of national caliber right here.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

You are absolutely right. The man is a genius and I consider myself lucky to live two blocks away. I can eat tartar every night of the week. We love Daniel!!