Sunday, July 12, 2009

Restaurant Eugene
















I have delayed writing this review because I have respect for what Linton and Gina Hopkins are trying to do with a seasonal local menu. They even utilize some of our favorite suppliers such as Sequatchie Cove and Sweetgrass Dairy.

But our experience points how difficult it is to run a restaurant, or any small business for that matter. If you are not there to oversee, things can go so wrong and it is your reputation that gets maligned, not the employees. Our particular experience was horrific on the service side, and the food was uneven.

When a waitress brings a clean sharing plate that has crusted food on it and the brings another with the same issue and then another, something is terribly amiss. When she then brings 6 items at a time when you have asked to bring no more than 3, is reminded of the original request, then does it again on the next round, you start to get a little exasperated. When she drops food off the plate as she is bringing it to the table, then picks it up, places it back on the plate and serves it to you, can you still believe you are in one of Atlanta's top restaurants, and a James Beard nominee to boot? When you are served a sparkling wine (by the glass) that has clearly been open since the previous day and is nearly flat, do you not start to wonder if there is anyone in charge? When we were considering the Chef's tasting menu and asked if the Chef was there that evening we were told "I think I saw him across the street earlier today." Bingo. Therein may lay part of the problem. If you read the opentable reviews for the day we were there, we were not the only ones to have a poor experience.

On to the food and restaurant. Great valet parking. The restaurant is a little too formal for the current style of food. Here's the lineup where multiple small plates are encouraged.


Cherry Bell Radish, radish pistou, fleur de sel, butter
Crisp kale, pickled onions, bacon, buttermilk dressing
Roast fennel, shallot petals, gremolata
Summer squash, pea shoot puree, wild plum jam
sweet corn tortellini, shitakes, broccoli greens
Potato gnocchi, baby leeks, lemon cucumber
Vidalia, peach salad, candied country ham, citrus vin
Hen of the woods, green garlic, hollandaise
Warm vidalia onion tart, peat shoot and radish salad
Soft farm egg, skillet greens, peanuts, bacon
Crispy pork belly, artichokes, baby carrots, sorghum glaze
Pan fried chicken livers, soft grits, chow chow
Georgia Quail, smoked bacon, rice grits, honey
Veal sweetbreads, farm egg, bottarga, arugula pesto
Duck breast, fennel, maitake, onion relish

Favorites were the chicken livers and the peach/vidalia salad.



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